Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Question on stacking a downrigger

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    2

    Default Question on stacking a downrigger

    I have seen several threads about stacking, but none that address smallest weight of ball required to stack. I'm asking because I currently have an undersized downrigger (cannon minitroll) that's meant for a 4# ball only. Besides the obvious solution of getting a larger downrigger, I'm considering using a larger ball while trolling for Kokanees at the Flaming Gorge in July. I have a 6#, but am not sure if that's going to suffice by the time I put a 2nd line on. Anyone even tried stacking with a puny 4# ball? My past experience on a different boat was 10# ball worked well with 2 lines. I'm sure it will make a difference how much the gear I'm pulling drags, but any insight would be helpful.

    Thanks...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    734

    Default

    Here is the problem with stacking with a 4lb. ball. As a lighter weight, the ball will drag at a larger angle back from the rigger than a 10 lb ball, which should troll almost straight down. This means that if you wanted to stack 10 feet up from the lower clip, you need to actually put 15 to 20 feet extra space between clips on the wire because of the drag angle. I wouldn't recommend the smaller weight with a stacker, but maybe someone else here has done it successfully.
    Age 65.
    20 ft. Jetcraft. 90hp Evinrude Etec, 8hp Yamaha kicker, Minn Kota electric troller. Electric 1106 Scotty downriggers, Lowrance HDS7 Fish Finder/GPS. Airmar P66.
    Also have a 15 ft. Gregor. 25hp Yamaha electric 2-stroke. Two electric 1106 Scotty downriggers. Lowrance HDS7 Fish Finder/GPS.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    3,859

    Default

    I had never considered a line clip as reason for a heavier weight. The Gorge by mid July will probably put you in the 50 - 60' deep range. The water drag from that depth is what will give you the most sway back. Can you reinforce the booms on your rigger a bit to handle say an 8 lbs weight?
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Eden, Utah
    Posts
    507

    Default

    I don't know where you purchased your Mini Troll but according to Cabelas, the Mini Troll comes prespooled with 100' of 120# test steel cable. This is more than sufficient to support a 10# weight. The only questions that remain are the sturdiness and security of your actual mounting to your boat. If the clamping system is in good shape and the area of the boat does not flex, you should be good to go with the heavier weight. As Full Monte said earlier, the lighter the weight and the added drag from the stacked lure increases the swayback. I would check your entire mount set-up with the heavier weight on dry land to avoid losing anything overboard, never to see it again. Hope this helps?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    eastbay CA
    Posts
    109

    Default

    Some have said that replacing the SS cable cable with braid reduces the drag and blow back. This may be an appropriate time for this.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I see what you're saying about swayback angle. I didn't consider that, and I'll factor that in. Regarding reinforcing the rigger I think the weak point is where the pulley attaches to the arm. I'm attaching a pic of my chincy downrigger. I think I'm realizing I just have to bite the bullet and get a proper downrigger to handle a heavier ball.....next year I guess (each fish I catch gets a little more expensive). I will try to use the 6# and see what happens.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cannon mini troll picture.jpg 
Views:	108 
Size:	9.6 KB 
ID:	1574  

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    734

    Default

    If you are dragging lead balls around the lake, you will most likely want to see where they are on the fish finder relative to the bottom. Letting the balls drag back behind the boat often puts them out of sight of the fish finder, and you may get surprised by underwater "humps" that sneak up on you from the bottom. Make sure you set the drag right on the rigger so that it CAN pay out wire if you do snag. It's better than capsizing the boat....
    Age 65.
    20 ft. Jetcraft. 90hp Evinrude Etec, 8hp Yamaha kicker, Minn Kota electric troller. Electric 1106 Scotty downriggers, Lowrance HDS7 Fish Finder/GPS. Airmar P66.
    Also have a 15 ft. Gregor. 25hp Yamaha electric 2-stroke. Two electric 1106 Scotty downriggers. Lowrance HDS7 Fish Finder/GPS.

  8. #8

    Default Downrigger

    My advice is to get a better downrigger. Hell with the gas to drive to the Gorge, hotels, food, misc stuff...you need to have the right gear. A downrigger
    is not expensive. A new Scotty manual, not electric is around $154.00....Go for it.......don't go to the Gorge and be disappointed because you could not get to the fish, that's not cool.......

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Davy Jones Locker
    Posts
    81

    Default

    It's all in the boom arm of the rigger. If your mounting surface is week then buying another rigger is of no use. Rigger manufactures put a weight limit because of the materials use. Your front pulley should be fine. I use the same pulley for my home made rigger (pictured). I would go ahead and at least move to a 6 pound ball, switch to braid (which is on mine) and find a pan-cake style ball. I use to have 2 6lbs'r, they are hard to come by. I think you will be fine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN0371.jpg 
Views:	120 
Size:	95.9 KB 
ID:	1575   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN0372.jpg 
Views:	113 
Size:	97.5 KB 
ID:	1576  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Bend, Or.
    Posts
    1,842

    Default

    I would also recommend upgrading at least to a Scotty manual. I use the Scotty 1060 Depthking and it's been a great unit over the years. I started with a 6lb weights but when useing ball trolls the sway back was too much and like Monte mentioned the ball was off the screen. Switching to 8lb balls cured the problem. Using the right weight to keep the sway back to a minimum is also a safety issue to keep the wire from getting caught up in the prop when making tight turns.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •