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Thread: JJ Rod

  1. #26
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    Default hmm

    sounds like people like the trilene big game for trolling also after reading those threads. hmm might go with that

  2. #27
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    I've found braid to be easier to untangle than mono, and it has no strength weakening kinks after a bad tangle. With that said there are only three types of tangles I have had using super-braid. The first is a rod-tip-wrap. Allowing slack in this line can easily cause the line to jump up and around your rod tip. Simply keep reasonable tension on the line or watch it if you let it go slack and this will not be a problem. Also, the lighter lines like 8 and 10 pound seem to have less trouble with this than do the larger 15 and 20 pound test. The second type is if you get some sort of a bind in your trolling rig and you begin to spin your line, like a failed swivel or a caught blade or something, it will want to spin line up like a wool spinners yarn on a wheel. This happens with either mono or super-braids but with the braids the wraps seem to be tighter and harder to see. Not hard to get out, usually just pull the line nice and easy and it just comes right out. Be sure and correct the hardware problem that caused this also. Again the advantage in this is that this line will not kink even when pulled tight, just make sure you don't make any knots when you're doing it. The third kind of tangle is one called a back-lash or a bird's nest, not uncommon for those of us who've used level-wind casting reels out on the steelhead river. With this kind of a tangle, I would prefer super-braids over mono 100:1. I've always found that it is much easier to get the tangle out with the braids. First, there's no pinching damage done to your line if it gets bound. Second there will be no kinks, even if that cast hooked good just as that big heavy weight was still flying fast and hard. Second, you don't suffer the friction heat from the line sliding past itself that you do with mono. Think about mono against mono, a friction builder. Now think about the braided stuff sliding effortlessly past itself, almost completely friction free. This leads to another little advantage that I incidentally found with braids. I have some friends that fish a little too competatively, (aggresively), with me and are not above crossing lines with me, sometimes by accident but other times on purpose. If mono lines are crossed and someone sets a hook quickly, the line that comes in contact with that fast moving mono melts in two and parts company. They quit doing this when I went to braided line. They started to lose their $5 lures instead of me losing mine.

    SuperD, I'm sure you have things figured out really well for yourself and I'm sure it works very well for you. But for me, you could not talk me into ever going back to mono, braided just has all the advantages. Not without some realization of the differences though, they don't function exactly the same. I would definately not discourage someone from trying braided line. Worst case is they don't like it and then go back to mono. And mono is definately cheaper to buy. Of course, with mono I tend to lose a lot more tackle and, you are wise to replace it every year or two, or more if you fish a lot. With braid, I'm still using some stuff that's over 10 years old and not losing a single lure because of it. You definitely have to use it a little while though before you can really see all the gains. And you do have to accept the fact that it is not mono and will not perform like mono. But being different in its characteristics does in no way make it inferior. Just don't give up on it the first time it challenges you, it's usually operator error and with just a little practice you learn how not to let that happen again.
    Last edited by skookum9; 02-18-2010 at 11:52 PM.

  3. #28
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    Default braid over mono

    thanks for taking the time to write that long thread for me. as ou can tell im pretty new at this and it seems that either one will do just fine. I have 2 Ticas comming and a abu 5600 maybe I will reel one or the other with mono and the other with braided and see what I get. im sure you both have caught bigger and more fish then me and are both right. i guess it is just up to my preference. ill try both, I am also concerned with my flasher selection. I have not yet used a dodger, only flashers. what size of dodger should I get, i have seen some pretty huge ones. sorry about all these thread starters in one reply.

  4. #29
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    After reading the thread from your posted link I see one of my afformentioned advantages of braids over mono, longetivity. Have yet to see these braids go bad. I did forget two important things I have learned about using these lines though that must be remembered. First, either learn a better axle knot than I know or else use a piece of heavy mono like I do for a tie to the reel and then splice the braided line to that mono. Otherwise that near frictionless line will just spin like a top whenever it gets pulled tight. The second is to always use the palomar knot. The improved clinch will not hold up on these lines without some modification of the knot. Always use the palomar, it's easy to tie and it retains its full line strength. Since learning that, I usually use the palomar when tying onto mono also.
    Last edited by skookum9; 02-19-2010 at 12:25 AM.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene View Post
    thanks for taking the time to write that long thread for me. as ou can tell im pretty new at this and it seems that either one will do just fine. I have 2 Ticas comming and a abu 5600 maybe I will reel one or the other with mono and the other with braided and see what I get. im sure you both have caught bigger and more fish then me and are both right. i guess it is just up to my preference. ill try both, I am also concerned with my flasher selection. I have not yet used a dodger, only flashers. what size of dodger should I get, i have seen some pretty huge ones. sorry about all these thread starters in one reply.

    Sounds like you've got a winning plan there. Best of luck to you. As to that flasher question, I just recently listened to Gary of FishwithGary and was very impressed with some of what he had to say. Impressed enough that I bought some of his tackle from him at the sportsman's show. He recommends his slingblade type flasher over a dodger type. I don't know, never tried one before but have used abe & al's a lot over the years and liked them. This year I'm going to try these new FWG rigs. If all goes well, I'll be using them for years and liking them too.

    Oh, and as for the more and bigger fish thing, I have had a few numbers in my time but remember, I'm fishing for brook trout and kokanee mostly. Not exactly what you could call big fish. I think my biggest brookie ever was 4lbs, and my biggest koke a good bit smaller than that. Good luck out there with those koke's, and be sure and check out what Gary has to say, he's got a good scientific approach and knows a lot.

  6. #31
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    Default thanks

    with the Tica reels im getting can I pop the spool out of the reel to tye the knot with out taking the reel apart, question sound so rookie of me but i never really used a baitcaster like these on my 5600 I just went through the eye then tied to the spool with it in place... it was kind of tough. also know about the drag but what about the other adjustment on the side of the reel it looks like a bar that goes right throught the center of the spool and you can tell it is adjustable... another rookie question. i have been stationed in Florida where it dont matter what you use for God sake i was using 15 lb Cajun red line with a 3/0 hook and half a crab to catch big red fish. now i have to be real particular.LOL

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by skookum9 View Post
    Sounds like you've got a winning plan there. Best of luck to you. As to that flasher question, I just recently listened to Gary of FishwithGary and was very impressed with some of what he had to say. Impressed enough that I bought some of his tackle from him at the sportsman's show. He recommends his slingblade type flasher over a dodger type. I don't know, never tried one before but have used abe & al's a lot over the years and liked them. This year I'm going to try these new FWG rigs. If all goes well, I'll be using them for years and liking them too.

    Oh, and as for the more and bigger fish thing, I have had a few numbers in my time but remember, I'm fishing for brook trout and kokanee mostly. Not exactly what you could call big fish. I think my biggest brookie ever was 4lbs, and my biggest koke a good bit smaller than that. Good luck out there with those koke's, and be sure and check out what Gary has to say, he's got a good scientific approach and knows a lot.
    thanks for all your time , I will look into the sling blades, i saw them at Walmart tonight. there is so much stuff to try. i also need to buy trout stuff for those Koke off days and trolling for trout.

  8. #33
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    I am not familiar with your Tica reel so I really can't say a lot about it. I can say that most level winds are better off if you don't "pop the spool out" since this requires some major disassembly of the reel. Some reels do have this feature though. One knot that is very popular is to feed the line through the line guide, go around the spool, and then make several wraps around the line where it passes around the spool, with the tag end, toward itself as you would in an overhand knot and then tie an overhand knot in the very end of the line to keep it from slipping out. I don't think I explained this very well and this is not always the knot I use, it's just about the easiest I knew to explain. I'm sure someone can do a better job of explaining this and there is also just a simple internet search where you could probably find some illustrations to help you.

    Again, not familiar with your Tica reel but, with a baitcaster you will usually find at least two drags and sometimes a third. I'm pretty sure you don't have the third but the other two are easy to explain. The first drag should be the spur on the handle crank that is your main drag to resist line feeding out when the reel is engaged. The other drag is usually a small knob located somewhere in front of that that controls the resistance drag on the freespool feature when you are casting. This is the drag that helps to keep you reel from backlashing when you make a cast or even when you let line out. An easy rule of thumb is to adjust this knob so that when you have the weight of your gear tied on, let the reel free spool until it hits the ground and make sure that it won't create a back-lash when it does. Keep your thumb at ready when you do this or you will have a real mess. It's also better to start off with too much drag and release it a little as needed. Since you are using this outfit only as a trolling rig, don't be afraid to set it a little tighter than you need. Too tight would only be a problem if you were trying to cast with it. Too loose and it will be a problem that will need no explaination once you've done it.

  9. #34
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    Default thanks again

    thanks again, i thought thats what the side spool drag did, as for the knot i will investigate, the one i tied on the 5600 i have works good. thanks for the sight im sure as you were answering this thread i was reading, ary has this down to a science ! crazy. his riggs are inexpensive and practical. throws out a bunch on my questions about glow riggs. thanks again

  10. #35
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    Gene,

    One more thing to consider with Braid, If you intend to look into stacking rods on riggers and running multiple rods, its just a matter of time until you get a tangled mess out there. Once you get that mess and start to deal with it, you will not enjoy that braid. I have experiened that Mono is much easier to untangle, and if you need to cut this line, its not near as exspensive. I hate nothing more than to waste my time with a spider web of junk when I could be fishing.

    I, as do most all of the guys that I fish with all run P-line in moss green in the 12lb.Or, another simular mono in the same color and lb test. We have hoarsed the larger kokes, and trout from the gorge with this line and have little to no problems.
    Team:Rocky Mountain Tackle, Radical Glow, Fresh water basics, Velocity fishing.

  11. #36
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    I, as do most all of the guys that I fish with all run P-line in moss green in the 12lb.Or, another simular mono in the same color and lb test. We have hoarsed the larger kokes, and trout from the gorge with this line and have little to no problems.
    Mark, do you run 12 lbs test on a 100 series reel?
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  12. #37
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    Kokaholic, I can see where stacking with two different line's, like one mono and one braid could possibly cause this because of their different drag coefficient's, especially if you got sloppy or careless. But have you ever had a problem stacking two braids together? I'm not sure I'm smart enough to understand why these two lines would be any more inclined to tangle than two mono's would. If this has happened to you, please do tell about it, I'd like to understand how it is possible. I am asking because I am hoping to learn and use the stacking method myself in the near future. And I definately have no intention on returning to the use of mono. I've had nothing but problems with every other mono I've tried except Maxima Chameleon. I have not tried the P-Line but I've heard good things about it for a mono. But I believe these braids are catching me more fish in noticeable amounts, and I definately like how much more "in touch" I am with my lure because of them. If you do get them tangled the one thing I could see about your having trouble getting them untangled is that their reduced diameter makes them harder to see and therefore sort out. Other than the seeing part, they come untangled much easier, just don't force them or they will knot up tight and you won't be able to see how to separate them.

  13. #38
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    skookum, since you are a jig first mind set and we are a troll first mind set, our position points are just different. If I was going to spend more time jigging, braid would definitely be the way to go. When you troll, a fish, too sharp of a turn and a few other factors just inherently cause line crossovers and tangles. Doesn't matter whether both line are the same materials or not.
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  14. #39
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    You are right about my jig first mind-set. If I know how to catch the fish without having to resort to trolling I will. But a lot of times I do troll out of necessity, especially when fishing for coho in the bay's. I have yet to see this be a problem, even with mixed lines. I usually have two lines out but sometimes three and still no problem. I recently bought the rigger blade to try stacking but I have not tried it yet. I cannot see the science in any problems with doing this. I am a firm believer that there are solutions to any situation we encounter, and I enjoy some of the challenges in finding these solutions. If it really does cause a snare by stacking these lines, I'm looking forward to finding the solution. But again, I cannot see what it is about them that could cause any grief at all. There seem to be some, possibly many, that do not like these lines. I am curious as to how many of them are opposed because of real misfortunes they've encountered and how many have made up their mind without giving them a "fair shake". Like I had said before, every problem I've encountered with these lines was an operator error, and once I learned what I had done wrong, all problems went away. This is only my experience and others may have had some real problems, I do not know. I know when I first began using them, a lot of people had warned me about excessive guide wear on my rod. From what I've seen, they wear no more than mono, and I suspect, based on their reduced friction, they actually wear less. I was told that these lines would cut my thumb "to ribbons" if I were to use them on a bait caster, another myth eliminated. These line's got a bad name before these people had even tried them, so you can see why I would like to know more about this tangle problem. Has anyone tried stacking these braids, and if so did they tangle? If they did tangle, do you know if it was on the let down? One the take by the fish? While fighting a "wild" fish? I ask because this is an experience I have not yet had. I know these line's are not for everybody. Some people prefer Ford's and other's prefer Chevy's. Some even still like Fiat's, (formerly Dodge). :) For me, I like whatever works. And practicallity is what works best for me. If any of you have had bad experience with stacking braids, please let me know, and tell me what you believe caused it also. Thanks.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
    Mark, do you run 12 lbs test on a 100 series reel?
    I run the gold Ticas with 12 lb and dont have any problem at all.
    Team:Rocky Mountain Tackle, Radical Glow, Fresh water basics, Velocity fishing.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by skookum9 View Post
    If you do get them tangled the one thing I could see about your having trouble getting them untangled is that their reduced diameter makes them harder to see and therefore sort out. Other than the seeing part, they come untangled much easier, just don't force them or they will knot up tight and you won't be able to see how to separate them.
    That right there is the big thing! Im pushing 50 and my eyes are not as good as they used to be up close. I have tangled fireline and spiderwire and it is not fun at all. To each there own, But i was not happy when I tangled them. I like braid for jigging, and some other applications, but trolling for kokes, I like the mono.
    Team:Rocky Mountain Tackle, Radical Glow, Fresh water basics, Velocity fishing.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kokaholic View Post
    I run the gold Ticas with 12 lb and dont have any problem at all.
    do you run the mono or braid ? and are you happy with line capacity with 12?

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene View Post
    do you run the mono or braid ? and are you happy with line capacity with 12?
    He runs mono and the 12 lbs he runs is more specifically because he fishes Flaming Gorge A LOT! Mark and I are still happier with mono and 10 lbs would be more than adequate if you decide to go with mono for the Kokes in the Washington area. We've all thrown our best conversion pitch at you so now you just have to pick one.
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  19. #44
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    I run Mono on my Ticas. I am happy with the line capacity, I have got down low on the spool a few times, but usually have no problems. I also find that the mono holds better for me in my releases on my riggers, ( yello offshores).

    Like Dave said, Its all up to you. Do whatever you feel comfortable with. If your used to braid, Run it. your not stuck with it. You can always change. Ok, try this. Put one of each on your new Ticas and try it out on your next few trips and see what you like best. Then when you decide, you only have to change one reel over and the cost is minimal
    Team:Rocky Mountain Tackle, Radical Glow, Fresh water basics, Velocity fishing.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kokaholic View Post
    Ok, try this. Put one of each on your new Ticas and try it out on your next few trips and see what you like best. Then when you decide, you only have to change one reel over and the cost is minimal
    good idea

  21. #46
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    Default cool

    thats what i will do, thanks for the long thread we can close now, you guys are awsome ! and petty4life checks in the mail for the hoodie, thanks for that service.

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