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Thread: Bought a new boat, how should I deck it out?

  1. #1
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    Question Bought a new boat, how should I deck it out?

    So I purchased a Alumacraft 145 CS




    I am picking it up this coming week, before I do, I'd like to have some things ready for it, here are some things I have picked out.

    Downriggers
    Now as far as downriggers go, I am not sure what else to get since the gunwales do look rather slim, not sure how I could mount something bigger or if I even need to?

    Fishfinder / GPS
    Going to be using it to find the depth, temp, speed etc.

    Trolling Motor
    I am not sure if I need this to start out with, the boat comes with a 4stroke 25hp yamaha engine, I have been told that i should have no problem trolling with it, and a trolling motor will only be luxury. If so I can wait.


    I am 23, and don't have a ton of cash, I have roughly 1500 that I would like to put down on accessories. That includes the ones I have already listed.

    I am new to boat fishing, I have river fished all my life for trout, steelhead and chinook salmon. I have been on someones boat and trolled once, had a blast.

    Suggestions?
    Think its good?
    Am I missing something?

    Let me know.



    I am mostly worried about not being able to troll, I kind of feel like I need downriggers to get anything successful. I could also use a reel if anyone has some picked out, I am left handed I have 2 of these https://www.kokaneetackle.com/p-270-...d-cgr762l.aspx
    Last edited by DeltaDude; 06-29-2015 at 03:39 AM.

  2. #2

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    Nice ride… What motor are you buying? Think about trolling at +- 1.5 MPH……..can tough with a 35-40 HP motor.

    I am by NO means an expert but you may want to rethink your downriggers. I say that because if you are like me you will want to upgrade to longer ones after the first trip and an extra $1-200 you pay now will save you twice that in the long run.

    If you have a friend that can build pedestals you can get them on the cheap otherwise something like this may work for 4” X 4” based downriggers.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-2-Big...item463c6dafed

    or this

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-2-Big...item463c6dafed

    A 24” arm manual downrigger will cost $50-75 more than the lake troll type and check craigslist for used. A little elbow grease could save some $$.

  3. #3
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    I don't have the exact model of the motor, but it is a 4 stroke 25hp yamaha.

    As for the pedestals, I am not sure where I would mount them to be completely honest.


    What benefit do you get for the 24" downrigger compared to what I have?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeltaDude View Post
    I don't have the exact model of the motor, but it is a 4 stroke 25hp yamaha.

    As for the pedestals, I am not sure where I would mount them to be completely honest.


    What benefit do you get for the 24" downrigger compared to what I have?
    Nice, you should be able to troll with a 4-stroke 25 with that hull without any issues. Good choice!

    Did not know you already had the downriggers..longer arms get them away from the boat and you can run 1 out each side and 2 lead core/long line poles out the back without tangles (and keeps the weights from hitting your new boat as well).

    In regards to the pedestals, in looking at the site I think they would go on the flat surfaces in the rear corners though it is a small photo of the top view..

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by callelk View Post
    Nice, you should be able to troll with a 4-stroke 25 with that hull without any issues. Good choice!

    Did not know you already had the downriggers..longer arms get them away from the boat and you can run 1 out each side and 2 lead core/long line poles out the back without tangles (and keeps the weights from hitting your new boat as well).

    In regards to the pedestals, in looking at the site I think they would go on the flat surfaces in the rear corners though it is a small photo of the top view..
    I haven't purchased them, just what I had selected :)

    You mentioned lead core/long line poles?

    I thought with a downrigger I was just going to be using 10lb mono for kokanee/trout?

  6. #6
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    I really hate 5" combo units for electronics. A couple hundred dollars would be a real worthwhile premium to get something in a 7" screen.
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  7. #7
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    callelk is correct about the downriggers. Buy one of the right downriggers before buying 2 of the wrong downriggers. When I bought my first boat, I tried rigging on the cheap and wasted money lost to eventual upgrades. One electric now will beat 2 manual crank in the short term. This time next year you will have 2 electrics and you won't have wasted hundreds of dollars on manuals you can't get much for in resale.

    P.S. - mount downrigger pedestals on your floatation boxes.
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
    callelk is correct about the downriggers. Buy one of the right downriggers before buying 2 of the wrong downriggers. When I bought my first boat, I tried rigging on the cheap and wasted money lost to eventual upgrades. One electric now will beat 2 manual crank in the short term. This time next year you will have 2 electrics and you won't have wasted hundreds of dollars on manuals you can't get much for in resale.

    P.S. - mount downrigger pedestals on your floatation boxes.
    At the risk of sounding stupid... what are floatation boxes?


    Do you have a good fish finder that is relatively cheap? Also some recommendations on downriggers?

  9. #9
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    On a boat your size, the back corners of the boat are typically filled with foam so that your boat won't sink to the bottom if you get swamped. In your case, those side benches maybe all filled with foam. It looks like your back corners have a metal cap tying your transom to the side gunnels. I would think you could fabricate a mount there or build a pedestal on the bench top back in that corner. Go back to Cabelas and search their fish finder units with at least a 7" screen. As for downriggers, have you considered looking at used? Scotty is usually a little cheaper cost than Cannons and like I said, I'd start with electric based on my own experience but everyone is different.
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  10. #10
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    I feel your going to be under powered. Really nice boat. I owned a few sleds when you get your equipement, fisherman,lunches, tackle, cloths, ropes, the weight will probable add up to another person. 35/40 would be a better choice. Good electronic,electric trolling motor as I don't think you are going to have a kicker. Sounds like your doing a great job putting her together. Honestly say the most biggest mistake is being underpowered. I think it was what they put on the package for pricing. It really isn't that much of a price increase to upgrade to. 40 horse. You hit some adverse weather white caps 4 ft waves 3 sec apart and you will need to get on top of them waves your going to be glad you have that power.good luck on your choice.

  11. #11
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    You do not have to invest large sums to have a downrigger. I fabricated removeable downrigger mounts from 3/4" plywood ($10) and hold them on to boat gunnels with small c-clamps ($5). A Cannon Mini-Troll downrigger costs $75. Add an inexpensive cannon rod holder for $15 and a downrigger weight for $25. So for around $130 you have a downrigger setup and you probably do not have to drill holes in your new boat.Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrmike View Post
    I feel your going to be under powered. Really nice boat. I owned a few sleds when you get your equipement, fisherman,lunches, tackle, cloths, ropes, the weight will probable add up to another person. 35/40 would be a better choice. Good electronic,electric trolling motor as I don't think you are going to have a kicker. Sounds like your doing a great job putting her together. Honestly say the most biggest mistake is being underpowered. I think it was what they put on the package for pricing. It really isn't that much of a price increase to upgrade to. 40 horse. You hit some adverse weather white caps 4 ft waves 3 sec apart and you will need to get on top of them waves your going to be glad you have that power.good luck on your choice.
    It's hard not to give DeltaDude too much good advice. Remember being 23. I think we should understand that this is a starter boat for him and with a constrained budget, it will be hard to make everything perfect. mrmike, you are probably correct about the motor(s) but this boat will fish and is what's in his budget. We all need a training boat to learn from.
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
    I really hate 5" combo units for electronics. A couple hundred dollars would be a real worthwhile premium to get something in a 7" screen.
    Have to agree. I have a 12' tin boat and run an Elite 7 HDI. I don,t use the down scan while Koke fishing but for perch, its the only way to go! You will be very happy with a 7" and Sportsman's Warehouse and Cabelas had 7" units for under $550.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
    It's hard not to give DeltaDude too much good advice. "but this boat will fish and is what's in his budget. We all need a training boat to learn from."
    Have to concur again. I had a 14' with a 20 HP 2-Stroke Merc and the thing would GPS at 30 but still troll at 1 MPH. My dad has a 16' Klamath side counsel with an Rude 35 2-Smoke and it clocks at 35 but he had to buy a 5HP trolling motor to get under 2.5 MPH. A 30 or 40 HP adds 50-60 lbs at the transom and will never troll at Koke speeds without dragging a sock or a plate.

    My welded 12' deep "V" with my 260# (ok, 268#) self, 25# lure bag with 12 3700 boxes, 4 rods, net, 3 gallons of fuel, flotation devices, sonar w/wheelchair battery and an ice chest with lunch and 4 32 oz gatoraids clocks at 20.4 MPH with a 1990's 9.9 Merc and still trolls at .75 MPH all day long

    I like what he has put together personally and the new motors run-out good.
    Last edited by callelk; 06-29-2015 at 07:00 PM.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeltaDude View Post
    I haven't purchased them, just what I had selected :)

    You mentioned lead core/long line poles?

    I thought with a downrigger I was just going to be using 10lb mono for kokanee/trout?
    You can use your Lami's for long lining early in the season and they are great for downriggers as the water heats up. Down the road find a $40-$50 level wind like a new/used Penn 9 or 209 for 12# lead core and a 7' Ugly Stick Downrigger rod rated for 20# max. They are -$50 if you look around.

    Sunday I ran my downrigger at 25' with a dodger and hoochie and ran 3 colors (15' or so) with Flash Lites and a spinner. Caught fish on both.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
    On a boat your size, the back corners of the boat are typically filled with foam so that your boat won't sink to the bottom if you get swamped. In your case, those side benches maybe all filled with foam. It looks like your back corners have a metal cap tying your transom to the side gunnels. I would think you could fabricate a mount there or build a pedestal on the bench top back in that corner. Go back to Cabelas and search their fish finder units with at least a 7" screen. As for downriggers, have you considered looking at used? Scotty is usually a little cheaper cost than Cannons and like I said, I'd start with electric based on my own experience but everyone is different.
    I run manual downriggers as I only run a wheelchair battery for my sonar and LED lights. I use a shuttle hawk set 2' above my ball so I just drop down 2' and off I go.

  17. #17
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    First of all, NICE looking setup - congrats! LOL, you're probably in overload right now, so I'm only going to chime in with one thing - DR's. My first DR was the exact one you listed - it worked for me for two years (Kokanee fishing) and "could have" last longer, but I upgraded to a Scotty manual 1050.......for my wife!!! LOL, I got the power Scotty 1101 - my argument being I was handling multiple boat operating chores and all she had to do was fish...

    Anyway, if you're only going for Kok's are just not very deep and $$ is a concern, that 1050 was light years nicer than my mini walker - much, much easier/nicer to use. On our new boat, my wife now has the Scotty 1106 and I have the 1101, which is another point I wanted to make, some thing purchased now are EASILY transferred to another boat down the road, so it's not like money wasted - assuming you're able to afford it in the first place!

    Hey, our first "real" (to us) boat was a 10' Livingston on a trailer. We fished the you know what out of that boat for 20+ years and loved it!!! Any boat can be fun to fish if it gets you out there, gives you a chance, and you don't ask more from it than it's capable of...

    Congrats and enjoy!

  18. #18

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    Bogey,

    This does not count the drag/ski boats that i have had but I started with a 10' flat bottom Jon, went to a 14' Alum, then an 18' Alum, then a 22' Alum twin engine back to an 18' Alum and now a 12' Alum. Being able to trailer or cartop, launch and retrieve in any weather, by myself is therapeutic when the moment arises. That said, my next will be another 14' Klamath but the "S" with a 20 4-Stroke when I get too old to lift the 12' and have to trailer everywhere.

    Oh, and the 1050-1060 Scotties are great for the money!!

  19. #19
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    I just want to say thank you everyone for your advice, as Bogey mentioned I am definitely in information overload, but its in a good way. Keep all the ideas coming, I want to learn everything there is to learn, a lot of it I will have to learn on my own, but it is nice knowing going in.

    Anyone have rod reel combos they can link me? I am a left hander can't seem to find much, seems it would save me some money if I bought them together.

    I see there are trolling combos, then there are downrigger rods, what difference is there?



    Here is everything I have so far, I upgraded the fishfinder to include side imaging, not sure if that helps much when kokanee fishing, but can't really afford the bump




    Now I know the corn is optional, but figured for my first few trips i'd try it. Any recommendations? Anything I am missing, or shouldn't get?

    Also, any other place to get some cheaper lures? I'd like to get more variety than what I have.
    Last edited by DeltaDude; 06-29-2015 at 10:59 PM.

  20. #20

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    The Lami rods you mentioned are great. I prefer 8’ for long line/downrigger and 7' for lead core, but that is me. Watch out for the combo trolling rod/reel. They are usually 20# class and up.

    Since you’re left handed check out the Tika KT101 Kokanee reels. I like 60's era Abu 5000's and 5000B's because I can build them as I desire for trolling or casting.

    Just some observations and my opinion only:

    The snubbers are a little large, go with 4” Macks if you think you need snubbers. I stopped using them with limber rods.

    The downrigger releases are way too heavy, use the Scotty mini power grip. You will need 2 and buy 2 shuttle hawks…

    Look at the Humminbird 859ci HD combo. I have my own thoughts about side scan and 140’ of water….oh, and Its only $50.00 more….

    As far as dodgers go, I buy 1-2 every week so you start where you start I guess….

    Start with shorter, smaller Model T trolls or beer cans in addition to the Kokanee trolls but like dodgers, you have way too many in a short amount of time!

    I make my own spinners and hoochies so there you go…but add some wedding rings in orange and pink with silver and gold blades.

    As I said, my opinion which is like, well, you know, everybody has one.
    Last edited by callelk; 06-29-2015 at 11:40 PM.

  21. #21

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    You benefit from having an aluminum boat.

    Every possible aluminum bracket can be fabricated & welded to your boat to MOUNT ANYTHING you want!!!

    Your aluminum boat is a "Blank Canvas"...customize it to your exacting specifications!!!

    Would definately go HEAVIER than 6lb downrigger weights, I use 10lb...

    Downrigger line angle is important, the LESS angle the better!!!

    In my opinion the 24" downrigger boom length is TOO short!!!...go with a 48" boom...creates a greater "Spread" & deceases line tangles & the boom can be adjusted for a shorter length where as a 24" is at MOST a 24" boom!...Mark
    Last edited by berryessakoke; 07-01-2015 at 12:41 AM.

  22. #22
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    I plan on just using 2 lines in the water, should I still get larger than 24"?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeltaDude View Post
    I plan on just using 2 lines in the water, should I still get larger than 24"?
    It is okay to start with 24". When the day comes that you get caught up in gear like the rest of us, the 24's can go out the back of the boat and you can get the 48" - 60" booms for the sides. In the short term, the 24" are easier to hook up and operate since they don't require a retriever cord.
    2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually, 21' North River Seahawk

  24. #24
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    If you fish alone much, a trolling motor with I-pilot or at least some kind of autopilot is invaluable. I spent a lot of time trolling in circles trying to land a fish, untangle gear, tie on a new rig, etc. before I got my I-pilot. It's a pretty big upgrade, so start saving your pennies now. I've used a cannon mini-troll for years as one of my downriggers and I'm very happy with it. I did put braided line on it when I got tired of listening to the wire hum.

  25. #25
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    Don't be afraid keep asking question? Looked like alot of money for fire corn $5.95 just get Shoepeg corn at Safeway very I expense add a little tuna from a bumble can ( oil only) or crawdad,garlic your on your way. I found the best bigger trolls wish were hard to beat were the medium ford fender number 7/8. Give yourself some time you to will have boxes of stuff they aren't taken that day.

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